The village of Aberdaron in Wales holds a certain allure, evoking a sense of mysticism in those who visit. Poet R S Thomas, in his reflective verse, captures the essence of this place that he called home during his tenure as the vicar of St Hywyn's church.
Driving along the picturesque coast road that encircles the Llyn Peninsula, one can't help but be struck by the sight of St Hywyn's church cemetery, nestled on a gentle slope. It's a poignant juxtaposition: half of the village bustling with vibrant colors and life during the day, while the other half rests in peaceful solitude beneath tombstones.
If you're planning a visit to experience the allure of Aberdaron, consider staying at http://www.hotels-wales.com/en/ where you can immerse yourself in the ambiance and serenity that R S Thomas captured in his poetry.
As waves crash rhythmically upon the long shore, Aberdaron stands serene, devoid of artificial light, an isolated companion to the surrounding landscape. The proximity of the vast Atlantic Ocean adds to the ethereal atmosphere that permeates this poet's wild corner of Wales.
Upon my arrival at the church, I unexpectedly encountered Reverend Susan Blagden, the present incumbent. Intrigued by the notion of following in R S Thomas' footsteps, I inquired about her experience. In response, Reverend Blagden tactfully remarked, "The spiritual heritage he left behind is truly profound. His poetry, much like the captivating peninsula, serves as a reminder of the futility in trying to control every aspect of our lives. The untamed essence of the landscape has a way of humbling us."
However, the legacy that Thomas left behind is multifaceted. It must be noted that Ronald Stuart Thomas was a rather austere individual, often dismissing parishioners when he encountered them on the streets. He harbored a greater fondness for birdwatching than baptisms. Contrasting with Laugharne in south-west Wales, which has become a pilgrimage site for Dylan Thomas enthusiasts, Aberdaron takes a different approach when it comes to celebrating the life and works of R S Thomas. Understanding his distaste for tourism in general, especially where English tourists were concerned, Aberdaron deliberately avoids erecting street signs or establishing pubs that pay homage to his memory.
Embracing the invigorating atmosphere of a bright and gusty Sunday, I set out to explore the captivating wilderness of the Llyn Peninsula in north Wales. Traversing the cliff tops south of Aberdaron, I found myself constantly swiveling to fully immerse in the breathtaking vistas of the peninsula and the majestic Rhinog mountains that loomed over the picturesque Cardigan Bay.
This particular section of the renowned 870-mile Wales Coast Path led me through a series of undulating terrains, revealing the true essence of coastal hiking. Reaching Porth Meudwy, I found myself at the water's edge, strolling amidst beached boats and clusters of lobster pots. It was here that I rounded a bend and embraced an expansive panorama of Bardsey Island, an enchanting destination that lures countless pilgrims during the pleasant summer months. Following my scenic journey, I found solace at St Mary's Well, a natural spring that had long been a source of refreshment for the faithful before embarking on the daunting yet exhilarating two-mile rowing boat crossing across the occasionally treacherous open sea.
Despite being unable to visit Bardsey due to the strong winds, I embarked on a journey along the enchanting back roads of the Llyn Peninsula. My destination was the renowned Whistling Sands of Porth O’er, nestled on the peninsula's north coast (also spelled Porthor).
The rewards of my search were abundant. The beach greeted me with its vast expanse of white sand, shaped by the relentless tides. The rugged rocks, adorned with lichen, resembled those found in Skopelos, creating a picturesque frame around the captivating scenery. As I strolled along the shore, I savored the crisp and invigorating air. Unfortunately, the whistling sound that the sands are known for seemed absent. It appeared that the relentless winter rains had dampened the sand, nullifying the friction between the grains that produces the melodious sound.
Embarking on my second coastal walk along the Llyn Peninsula, I couldn't help but immerse myself in the poetic world of Thomas. Venturing off the beaten path, I meandered through picturesque roads and scenic footpaths, absorbing the tranquil ambiance that often accompanies this corner of Wales. One notable stop on my journey was the impressive, slate-walled rectory where Thomas once resided during his time as a vicar. Even in the warmth of the morning sun, the abandoned building exuded an eerie charm.
Continuing my exploration, I reached the quaint St Maelrhys church in Llanfaelrhys, where I stumbled upon the resting place of Thomas's first wife, Elsi Eldridge. Like Thomas, Elsi was an artist who shared a disdain for domestic comforts and societal obligations. Their fifty-year companionship was no ordinary union, as hints of Thomas's deep and sincere affection can be found in his poem "Sonnet": "I never thought in this poor world to find another who had loved the things I love, the wind, the trees, the cloud-swept sky above."
Immersed in the beauty of the Llyn Peninsula, I found myself captivated by the rich connections between the landscape, the tales of Thomas, and the lasting legacy of love and appreciation for nature.
Just behind a memorial stone, I discovered a magnificent piece of slate that bore the names of the Keating sisters, aristocratic unmarried women who generously supported poet Dylan Thomas. Continuing my journey, I arrived at Plas yn Rhiw, an exquisite 17th-century manor house that was expertly refurbished in 1939 with guidance from Clough Williams-Ellis, the visionary behind the nearby village of Portmeirion. Managed by the National Trust, this impressive property is considered the most prestigious in the area. The gardens are a delightful blend of enchanting woodland, sprinkled with snowdrops, and meticulously curated azaleas, magnolias, and box hedges.
In sharp contrast, I encountered Sarn-y-Plas, a whitewashed cave-turned-cottage that the Keating sisters rented to R S and Elsi after their retirement, with R S even symbolically burning his cassock on the beach to celebrate this new chapter of their lives. Nowadays, the property stands empty, serving as a solitary tribute to this reclusive couple, and it is now owned by their son, Gwydion.
Experience the breathtaking beauty of the Llyn Peninsula, a hidden gem in the heart of Wales. Start your journey with a leisurely walk along the pristine beach of Hell's Mouth, revealing stunning views at low tide. If the tides don't cooperate, fear not, as the clifftop route to Abersoch offers an equally captivating adventure.
Abersoch, known as the Llyn Peninsula's premier resort, boasts a picturesque beach adorned with vibrant multicolored huts, creating a charming coastal ambiance. This idyllic town is home to an array of inviting restaurants and hotels, ensuring an unforgettable getaway.
Contrary to expectations, both celebrities and £700,000 chalets meld harmoniously with the tranquil atmosphere and radiant sunshine found in Abersoch. Savor the warmth of the Mediterranean-like setting as you relax outside one of the many delightful cafés, indulging in a cup of robust coffee. The view from the small promenade overlooking Abererch beach is simply breathtaking, with Mount Snowdon majestically dominating the horizon, its summit adorned with a striking streak of snow.
Immerse yourself in the beauty of the Llyn Peninsula, where a poet's inspiration meets the untamed allure of Wales.
Exploring the Llyn Peninsula is an adventure in literary history and natural beauty. The windswept landscape and picturesque views are sure to captivate any visitor, offering a serene and inspiring experience. With its rich history and sustainable approach to tourism, Bardsey Island is a fascinating destination that holds a unique charm for all who visit.
Stepping onto the island's little harbour, visitors are greeted by a sense of tranquility and sustainable living. From the lush landscapes to the passionate locals, Bardsey Island offers a glimpse into a world where the mainland is blocked from view, allowing for an uninterrupted connection with nature and history.
As I ventured towards a lighthouse situated on the western end of the island, I couldn't help but notice a majestic seal observing my presence. In the midst of the churning and foamy surf, this captivating creature playfully bobbed up and down. Intrigued, I rose from my resting spot on a rock and continued my stroll along the coastline, unaware that the persistent seal would keep pace with me. Eventually, the seal led me to not just one, but two more colonies of its kind.
Residing on the southern coast of Bardsey, these magnificent gray seals shared their habitat with an array of other fascinating creatures, such as oystercatchers and kittiwakes. Throughout the migratory season, which starts in April, the area becomes a temporary home to an array of feathered travelers, including willow warblers and shearwaters.
The tranquility of the surroundings was absolutely remarkable, prompting me to resist my urge to conquer the "mountain" that stood before me, with its modest elevation of 550ft. Instead, I chose to immerse myself in the serenity by staying close to the ground and embracing the stillness. During certain parts of the year, the island offers charming cottages for rent, yet on this particular occasion, there was not a soul in sight. Bardsey Island, home to only eight permanent residents who are either engaged in agriculture or take care of the bird observatory, appeared untouched and undisturbed. Meanwhile, individuals such as Colin, a resident of the neighboring Llyn Peninsula, gracefully come and go, collecting their plentiful catches of oysters and crabs.
Although unpopulated and secluded, Bardsey Island, also known as 'Ynys Enlli' in Welsh, epitomizes a serene paradise where one can escape the bustling modern world. Its unspoiled beauty and isolation provide an ideal retreat for those seeking solace and tranquility. As you explore the island, you'll encounter various diverse wildlife habitats, from beautiful coastal cliffs to lush green pastures, offering an exquisite tapestry of nature's wonders. Don't forget to spare a moment to appreciate the local bird population, as the island has long been considered a haven for migrating birds, attracting birdwatchers from far and wide.
R S Thomas, like many before him, sought solace in the untamed expanse of western Wales. Away from the commotion of England, he yearned for a spiritual sanctuary, a place where both land and sea converged in perfect harmony. The allure of this notion remains potent today, as individuals continue to be captivated by the idea of finding their own personal haven.
When it was finally time for me to make the journey back home, I had to resist the pull of Snowdonia up ahead and instead turned my gaze towards the rear-view mirror. In that fleeting moment, as the sun cast its golden glow, I beheld the breathtaking vista of Aberdaron's idyllic bay. The ocean stretched out before me, and amongst its shimmering reflection, Bardsey emerged as a solitary figure. This ethereal sight was both beautiful and full of poetic inspiration, reminding me that there is beauty to be found in every corner of the world.
Optimal Time to Visit
The most favourable times to visit the Llyn Peninsula are during spring, summer, and the beginning of fall due to the Gulf Stream's influence, resulting in it being one of the sunniest locations in Britain.
How to Get There
The last stop on the railway line is Pwllheli, though it is highly recommended to have a car for a thorough exploration of the peninsula's byways. The Llyn Peninsula offers a splendid environment for cycling and hiking. Feel free to reach Edge of Wales (edgeofwaleswalk.co.uk or 01758 760652) for assistance with accommodation, map provisions, and luggage transport throughout the peninsula.
It's advised to contact Colin Evans on 07971 769895 in order to schedule a trip to Bardsey Island or to verify the schedules. More information can be found at bardseyboattrips.com or bbfo.org.uk.
For literature enthusiasts, RS Thomas Literature Wales organises RS literature-themed events and walks throughout the year. Explore rsthomas2013.org for further details. To add an extra layer of cultural richness to your visit, a guided walk at St Hywyn’s church in Aberdaron is planned for April 4th (st-hywyn.org.uk).
Lodging and Dining Recommendations
Lean towards the splendid Venetia, a vintage Victorian villa hosting five lavishly decorated bedrooms. The proprietors, Marco Filippi and Jayne Edge, operate the most popular Italian eatery in town. A dual occupancy room inclusive of breakfast can be booked starting from £80 (01758 713354; venetiawales.com).
Nestled slightly beyond Morfa Nefyn along the peninsula's northern coastline, the serene Graeanfryn Farm House houses four recently refurbished visitor rooms. Wake up to breakfasts prepared using duck and goose eggs, courtesy of owner Jan Harrison's small-scale farm. Double room along with breakfast starts at £75 (01758 720455; graeanfrynfarm.co.uk).
The Ty Newydd Guest House boasts 11 fashionably designed rooms with sea views, enhancing the ambience. The in-house pub-cum-restaurant offers an array of culinary delights, including Purple Moose beer from Porthmadog, delectable seafood, and the classic 'Aberdaron cassoulet'. Secure a double room inclusive of breakfast from £115 (01758 760207; gwesty-tynewydd.co.uk).
Resource Guides and Cartography
For fundamental material and cartographic presentations of the region, you can visit the Wales Coast Path website (walescoastpath.gov.uk). However, for a more intricate analysis, the Edge of Wales page is a preferred choice. Geography enthusiasts will find the OS Explorer map 253 useful as it offers complete mapping of this area. Learn more about this region by visiting visitwales.co.uk.
Get a fascinating insight into the life of R S Thomas through Byron Rogers's engaging biography titled The Man Who Went Into The West (Aurum). It garners praise for its thorough approach and subtle humor elements. Anticipate the release of a new collection - R S Thomas: Uncollected Poems, coming out on March 29 from Bloodaxe.